Few things symbolize the modern world more than the cell phone. And few images exemplify a simpler past more than a farmer returning home from his fields. In Portugal, we met them both: a farmer whose truck contained a greasy ax, a basket of eggs and a cell phone. Our encounter made us realize that tradition and modernization are not exclusive of one another in Portugal -- in fact, they go hand in hand.
Modern Portugal is most easily experienced at the sun-drenched, friendly beach resorts of the Algarve, but don't overlook the country's other regions. They may require a bit of work with the Portuguese language, but the rewards are many -- medieval hilltop towns, exceptional wine and food, and unforgettable sights (a building made of human bones, for instance). The Portuguese people may prove the most interesting part of your trip. Their nostalgic character relishes the past even as the country seeks a place in contemporary Europe